Minor correction: You can’t say no because they intentionally almost never give you “no” as an option. It generally is “Ask again later” instead, when you clearly never want them to ask again, just like you didn’t want to be asked the first time.
Minor correction: You can’t say no because they intentionally almost never give you “no” as an option. It generally is “Ask again later” instead, when you clearly never want them to ask again, just like you didn’t want to be asked the first time.
Can’t do it, it is too sane and user friendly. Best they can do is further reduce flexibility and add more AI.
It’s quite literally where I moved to from FL. And it is very nice, I wish I had moved sooner.
I am almost certain that steam keys are actually free to developers, which is the whole reason for the policy.
As someone that shopped at both, but preferred Circuit City, I think Best Buy initially did a better job of “wowing” customers and had a better store layout. They also were better at trying to squeeze money out of people and thus were more profitable than Circuit City, so when times got leaner they survived and then had the whole market.
Carpooling is totally a thing, but in my experience doing it for years, unless the people in the group were punctual and lived close enough, it never works out.
Well, if your keyboard is hotswappable and you have any spare switches, it could be a quick fix as long as you know which switches/keys are chattering and you have leftovers. I don’t know who (Mass)drop had actually manufacture the Halo Clear switches, it could be Gateron, but I don’t think they made that information public.
If you have chattering, that is sadly a problem with the specific switch itself and the software has just been ignoring the issue. I don’t suppose the keyboard you’re using is hotswappable? If it is, just pull and replace those switches. If not, you either need to desolder the bad switches and resolder in replacements or stick with that software. I have had some consistently bad chattering issues with Gateron switches to the point that I completely avoid them as a manufacturer. So if you coincidentally are using switches from them and plan to replace them, I’d look for a different brand of switch.
I suppose technically any keyboard with a programmable controller could be considered to have software even if you don’t need to run, but I was thinking more along the lines of Logitech or Razer always memory resident garbage.
While that keyboard isn’t for me, I’ll admit that look good and does in fact have software. Good counter point. Also, that software appears to just for reconfiguration of the layout and probably macros so I bet it doesn’t need to be run all the time, or even at all if you like the standard layout. That is how software for hardware should be done.
Disclaimer: I’m a keyboard snob. I can’t think of a single good keyboard that even has software.
I actually use Logitech for all my mice and trackballs, but I also haven’t installed Logitech’s junky software in a long time. Maybe I don’t know what I’m missing.
Yeah I’d love this as well. I much prefer the top down original.
I’m not sure I can call it my favorite, but damn this movie is great.
I have, but I am old and sucky at “Nintendo hard” games now so it went about as I expected.
Some people in FL move to the midwest because of weather. I moved here because FL turned into a super dumpster fire. We are not the same.
I got all the way through the game once, it reset back to super slow after level 99. I almost lost when that happened because I was so used to it being lightning quick heh.
Konami games were hard, but not crazy hard. I don’t think it should be on any “hardest game” list either.
Same here, though I also beat Ghosts n Goblins. Honestly once you can reliably beat the first couple of stages, you can probably get through the whole game.
Weirdly, that is the only one of the three I have beaten. Zero chance I could do it now of course.
It depends on which Royal Kludge keyboard you have. They make some that are typical mechanical boards (usually a cheaper Cherry MX based switch) and some that are EC Topre clones. If its the former, then you would probably need to take it apart and desolder the switches since I don’t believe they made any that were hotswappable. If its the latter type, then you can pretty easily fully disassemble it and see if maybe something is up with the stems or conic springs under the membrane. Note: for the EC type, be careful when taking it apart and there is a good chance those springs will explode out like confetti and ruin your day. I learned this the hard way.