

🙏🏻
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Can I assume from your response that you have a mk4 or mk4s with this issue then?
Thanks…It’s a good point. I’ve updated the post photo, and I’ll add the worse failure mode elsewhere.
If you wanted to customise the starting gcode, I’m sure you could.
A typical output with PLA.with Zoffset = 0
I can get adequate results with Zoffset or LiveZ +0.04 with smooth sheet and PLA.
PETG is still variable results for same settings, z+0.01 is ok some of the time, others it is still terrible, and still sees filament build up, so if printing real things, it eventually blobs, and has a (bedArea - printArea) chance of then causing a collision.
+0.02 means no bed adhesion, and I can’t actually get a finished first layer.
This is one of the worse failure modes I have experienced for this issue. In this instance, the extreme amount of “squish” leads to extreme filament buildup on the nozzle, eventually causing colisions and removing chunks of the FL test.
Yes, but it occurs with both PLA and PETG.
You mean my thinking cube?
I do my best thinking in the shower… I have amazing realisations and form incredible connections between relevant life dots…
I just have trouble remembering the outcomes of this thinking once I get out…
I’ve been wondering with everything going on, if they will bother finishing the 5th season of Handmaids Tale, then this today; life imitates art: I wonder if these folks will seek asylum?
My mk4s has just been replaced by Prusa. I’ve been chasing down first layer problems that manifested as load cell bed scan calibrations being haywire and filament blockage false positives.
After replacing just about every part of the nextruder 2 parts at a time, it started leading to the loveboard being the culprit, but after 6 weeks of troubleshooting, I asked for this to just be solved already, so they’ve JUST delivered the replacement.
So for me, it will be starting from scratch sith my mk4s, and figuring out what’s needed.
Given I print mostly PETG structural parts, I’m imagining that I’ll likely end up with 0.8mm as my default, and 0.6mm Obxidian as my abrasives nozzle. (I have been waiting to print PCCF for a while…)
I’ve noticed partial internal blockages when switching between PETG and PLA; ie’ when purging, the new filament curves as it’s coming out and I’ll get inconsistent extrusion till it shakes a small fragment of the old filament out in the next print.
While cleaning filament helps, I think that’s mostly as I can run it at 290°C to flush the remaining anything out… Plus it’s a much longer filament swap process to do cleaning filament in between…
While regular nozzles are super cheap, the nextruder nozzles from Prusa aren’t, especially the High Flow ones, and double especially the high flow Obxidian ones… The high flow nozzles also don’t let you cold pull them the same way, which sucks…
When I started with my first printer, the flashforge A3, someone suggested having separate nozzles for PLA from PETG… I used to do this and it prevented many problems I’d been having from ever starting. I’m beginning to think about doing the same with my Mk4S, and having a separate hotend/nozzle combo for PETG, PLA, and PCCF that I can just swap…
So then I’ll just need two new mk4 silicon socks in colours other than black so I can tell them apart…
Also: not endorsed as a hammer, but makes it easier to use in your palm:
Your post reminded me I wanted to swap my 2x flathead bit for the flathead/carbide windscreen breaker bit… I’ve just ordered two…
I carry the CX, and love it…
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The old guy that runs the mower shop I went to (had to drive 25kms) suggested it.
He said that all the Australian mowers with a “flat” deck already have this tilt built into it by default, so I had to manually do that on this one that let’s you set each wheel height independently.
Apparently, if I remember correctly, it helps with the length as the grass is cut earlier and is then above the blades sooner, rather than clogging it from underneath, and the rear of the cut path isn’t fighting grass as much and can create the vacuum to get the clippings into the bag.
As the model I chose has a “Blade Brake” that lets me stop the blades but keep the mower running, the only thing he suggested to me was not to start the blades mid path, and if I had to, to lift the front up as I engaged the blades, as they lift just a little as they come up to speed.
I forgot a few times, and I can see the few little areas where it cuts a little bit shorter than desired, so it was good advice.
I chose that shop as they had the models I wanted to compare in stock, and the guy who owned the place and his wife both seemed to know the models inside out on their short YouTube videos…
The other places I rang just told me they didn’t carry any stock, and that everything I needed was on the Honda webpage, so you can probably binder stand why I drove the extra distance.
I Iove this so much…
My lawn is not that large, its just on a 30° incline, and pushing the mower up that hill in 40°C days, while brutal, was manageable.
We’ve had torrential rain periods for the last few months, so instead of the lawn growing 2-3cm a week, it’s been growing 7-10cm a week. This meant that I’ve had to progressively mow it 4x to get the job done.
New lawnmower has twin blades, so it makes it through the length much more easily, and I can set the front wheels 1/2 a setting lower to help the mower get through the crazy growth.
The cross cutting and cloth bag means it doesn’t clog the catcher instantly and I don’t need 4x passes to return the lawn to useable.
The self propelled bit is rather magical though. It takes itself up the hill.
It does use a little more fuel that the last one, but I’m ok with that.
Nah… It’s easy… My previous mk3s+ had hundreds of awwsome PETG hours.