Monacokeys from Munich sells XDA White on Black. Only in German though.
But you could hit 'em up on discord and ask if they are able to source you an US layout or point you to a shop that has those in stock.
Pepe Godzilla
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Cake day: August 5th, 2023
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3·1 year agoi think you might overestimate the building part.
If you get a barebones board with a hotwap PCB you have to screw in stabilizers for all keys larger than 2u (=2 keys) - Shift, Enter, Backspace and Space. Since you can’t be arsed, screw lubing them. Just screw them in, takes 3 minutes.
Then, place all the switches on Plate and PCB and since they’re hotswap you just press them in.
Then place like 8 gaskets or screws, drop on your PCB-Plate-Switch-Sandwitch, screw together top and bottom with 4 more screws.
When you’re done, mount the caps, also just pop them in place.
That’s it. I reckon it’s about as much work as a 10$ Lego set.
But going prebuilt is far easier of course: Unpack, plug in, done. If you get a hotswap you can change switches later on if you fancy.
Tbh, if not in IC projective GB or GB, waiting and browsing around is the best option. If you don’t look for something really specific there will be interesting projects popping up and the wait should increase budget.
geekhack.org IC or GB subforums or the designers discord channel if they have one. Some also post to /r/mechmarket
tbh, i think we reached a point where there are so many switches available, that cherrys are almost the worst price/performance product imho.
I’m pretty sure geon will have the better quality product. At a higher price though.
Zooms are nice, i like my 65 a lot, but I’d only pick a zoom over a geon if i’d really want a special colour.
Depends on what you’re looking for. Zooms are great if you like foam. Building without, go for geon.
ˆthis. very much. It’s a match made in heaven.
i gotta say: Puddings are somewhat nice, but always too gamer.
I reckon, “Pudding refined” with milky white bottom and Cherry style legends would look nice on most keebs.
By design, mechs are quite a bit taller, because the switches are taller.
Unless you’re a “floating” typist, I would recommend a palmrest.
I’d love one, but my colleagues…
PBT will also shine at some point. Whether it’s sooner or later depends on how you type and how greasy or sweaty your fingers are. PBT can’t do magic, it’s just a, usually softer, plastic.
If you’re looking for cheap caps, try aliexpress or taobao.
I think the problem might be sound, because the spacebar (and pcb) would be right on top of solid material and the sound can escape to the front. I guess it’ll sound very flat and no one wants to spend 300 bucks on a bad sounding spacebar.
I just started soldering. It’s not too difficult and super useful. Also adds a lot of options that are usually cheaper than hotswap.
A pinecil is 25$. add another 25 for solder, flux, a pump and copper desoldering braid and you’re set up.
I found hotswap is increasingly difficult to get once you’re looking for non-massmarket stuff outside of 60 or 65 keebs with ANSI Layout.
It’s just faster to solder than to search for non-standard hotswap.
And with millmax, you can make any solderboard hotswap if you fancy.
that really is a nice typewriter. I wonder if that spacebar integration can be done on mx as well, because it’s looking really good.
Afaik Drop sets are exclusives. You may have a good chance finding those 2nd hand on mechmarket though. Maybe even for less than 100$.
Out of curiousity: 3U space with 3U or 2U wires?
I kinda hate 3u bars for three reasons:
3U bars are a half nightmare and need to be standardized. I much prefer 2.25/2.75 for those reasons, although it looks like shyte compared to nice and symmetrical 3U.