Interesting.

https://github.com/X1Plus/X1Plus/issues/425

DRM They limit who can talk what to their printers.

Most noticeably you can only send and start prints (g-code) with their own program over the network. Either bambu studio or a “cloud” gateway from BambuLab. It is no longer possible to do this from within Prusa- or OrcaSlicer.

my take:

1. ~~ for the X1C they allow to install X1Plus firmware. The community asked for it. BambuLab allowed it back then and still does.~~ At the moment rooting an X1C isn’t possible. Either it is a broken promise (“We will give customers the choice to install third party firmware and root system at their own risk.”)or just a temporary issue.

2. BambuLab sad that this will come. Only now that they have done it, most people are starting to notice.

A few months ago, BambuLab talked about this change.

This shouldn’t catch anybody by surprise.

Will report back tomorrow.

One more information: It happens immediately after turning the printer on. the heater output doesn’t need to be enabled in the control interface or by g-code.

The far bigger issue is that reviewers don’t have the time to put 1000 hours and more on the printer. So a lot of them are just an extended unboxing experience.

Next issue is that nearly all of the influencers have no expertise at all. They are just talking heads and happen to know a thing or two about 3D-printing. This means they still have no clue at all about embedded/electronics and mechanical design and often make hillerious comments.

here is the schematic: https://github.com/Duet3D/Duet-2-Hardware/blob/master/Duet2/Duet2v1.06/Duet2_Schematic_v1.06.pdf

https://github.com/Duet3D/Duet-2-Hardware/blob/master/Duet_Expansion/Duex5v0.9a/Duex_Schematic_v0.9a.pdf

There is a 74HCT02 which can do up to 20mA so no pulldown resistor is required.

Not looking forward to cut traces on it for troubleshooting. It is an original board (no clone) so it should be exactly the parts in this schematic assuming the linked revision matches the board revision.

I would troubleshoot that hardware first

Was my first instinct as well as I didn’t do any firmware updates prior.

The continuity test doesn’t show a short and the test Duet recommended in one of the documentation was to remove the SD-card. If the issue stays it is a hardware issue. If it is “gone” it isn’t and me removing the SD-card causes this behavior to stop further indicating a software issue. Reading the schematic right now for the first time and I am schoked that there is no ESD-protection at all. Nothing. Just a straight connection from the mosfet to the output… what the hell where they thinking …

Would need to have an in-depth look at the schematic but likely I can’t probe the MOSFET gate voltages in the circuit.

What I could do is probe the signal/heater enable signal from the MCU.

Wide display: perfect for reading A4 documents

keyboard: nicer to type. Also, the passport was as wide as, well … , a passport so it is a pretty decently sized keyboard which isn’t comparable to the tiny Q10.

The passport was never meant to be a generic for the masses device. It is a beautiful specialized tool.

This device has a tiny touchscreen, and a keyboard, rather than having the whole thing being a touchscreen.

That’s awesome. I still miss my Blackberry Passport (keyboard and large 1:1 screen).

Also, what if this is an actual viable way to “market” for an open-source project?

I am fortunate enough to not market my stuff:

If somebody finds and can make use of it. Great.

In the other case who cares? Didn’t hurt or cost me anything to publish it.

Fake GitHub stares have other implications: Typosquatting is a real issue and fake stars make it more convincing that it is the genuine project.

Teepublic: “we have no say in which design can stay”

In other words, it is easier for our bottom line to just follow everything instead of doing it properly and checking if it is a valid request.

Buy a current-gen. hotend and use a y-splitter in the filament path.

Those hotends do the same but work less reliable. Getting the filament change right/reliable requires some slicer setting tuning.

UVtools allows to use PrusaSlicer for third party SLA-printer: https://github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/tree/master

I still don’t recommend SLA at home. Too much of a hassle in terms of safety.

Shaft diameter and length is also part of it.

NEMA is just a mechanical aspect and contains zero information about the performance. Equally comparing motors by torque isn’t the full picture as the inductance (and other aspects) can be different. Equally important is the stepper-driver & supply voltage.

Biggest concern for me is creep over time.

Small CNC-mill. Previous 1.85mm NEMA23 wasn’t enough.

Not bad either.

Previously I had a 1.85Nm on this axis which wasn’t enough to reliably pull 1’500 mm^2/s acceleration milling metal. All sort of issues from overheating stepper driver to it losing steps.

I see. Size doesn’t matter to you. It is all about skills.

Let’s me introduce you to the 400W NEMA24 servo.

edit: Sorry. Was only the 400W unit. Somewhere there should be a 750W speciment.

Also be careful with these motor. While a small NEMA17 found on 3D-printer has 0.5 Nm and under normal conditions will stall before serious harm happens this NEMA34 is 9Nm which is enough to break bones. Those 400W servos are equally dangerous. While only around 1Nm they have roughly 4Nm peak and keep this torque at high RPMs.

If you have to mix it use mechanical interlocking parts. Like a PLA cavity that is filled with PETG. The PLA & PETG won’t connect/bond but due to the mechanical design, it will still hold together.

Get a BambuLab P1S without AMS.

I don’t want to be bogged down with having to run proprietary slicers through Wine and things like that. I am not sure how big of an issue that is with e.g. Bambu or Creality (if at all), but I’ve seen enough rug-pulls and enshittification processes that I don’t really want to risk that.

You can use PrusaSlicer, OrcaSlicer, Cura or some other slicer with them. They run perfectly fine in LAN-mode removing the Bamub Lab server stuff/question from the equation.

While not every replacement parts are also made by third party companies things like nozzles, PEI-sheets or fans are available from third parties.

As future-proof as I can possibly hope for.

I would argue money in the bank account is far more future-proof than any 3D printer can be and Bambu Lab costs a fraction of what a Prusa core one costs. So when the future arrives use the saved money to buy a next-gen printer.

Locally produced (I’m EU based).

Bambu Labs are well made so not a safety hazard but I can understand this point.

The Prusa core one looks very promising but at the same time, it isn’t for everybody and the general consumer is likely better of by buying the P1S. For the price of 1 Prusa One you could buy 2 Bambu Lab P1S and 10-20kg of good PETG.

regarding Support: Difficult question. Prusa has excellent support but the last experience I had with their printers before dropping them wasn’t that great and was riddled by issues/bugs. BambuLab on the other have the it just works magic but the support needs to improve. You send them a bunch of log files as requested. They probably only look at the oldest file (that might be months old) and provide a “wrong” reply based on that as a solution without looking at the text you wrote.

or the A1 mini if 18x18x(?)cm^3 is large enough.

For the material: Go with PETG for the coasters.