Holy fuck, that was rough. The guides and the videos show the uppers and lowers pulling apart easily. I had to clamp the lowers in the vice and use the uppers as a slide hammer and repeat the bang bang bang process for 5-10 minutes, with the seal moving almost imperceptibly as it walked it’s way out.
Putting the upper bushing back in took a trick, it is a split ring, and is expanded too big to fit in the recess unless you compress it. I found that I could take some brake bleeding hose and cut off about 4" of it, and hammer it in with a punch between the bushing and the lowers. This worked to compress the bushing, and I could then place the washer over it and hammer it down about halfway, and then pulled the washer and hose out and then drive it home.
Tomorrow I get to get back at it and tackle changing the rear tire.
I really do want to balance them, just didn’t have an easy way today. If there was a shop available to mount and balance, I’d absolutely have taken it there. The weights are opposite the valve stem, so I’m hoping that I get lucky, we’ll see.
Yeah, putting on the Road 5s, Revzilla had them for a good bit less than the Road 6.
Do you live near a harbor freight? They have a static balancer for 50ish bucks. I have one and it seems good enough for a few tires a year.
No harm in trying it out. If you can’t feel anything at speed, send it.
Impressive tires tho. Second biggest improvement after installing Racetech gold valve emulators and proper rate springs.
Try dyna beads or any other brand dynamic balance beads. You pour them into the tire through the valve stem and that’s it. When the wheel is turning they naturally move around to the light spot and balance the wheel. I’ve used them in many bikes and they work great until you get to track day speed (120+ mph).
I thought about this, seems to be some mixed opinions about using them online.